Housing and heating Leopard Geckos

Which vivarium?

One of the reasons why leopard geckos are so popular as pets is, because of their small size (8-11 inches for a fully grown adult) they can be comfortably accommodated in a fairly small container. The ideal size vivarium for a single adult gecko is 90cm (3 feet) in length, with a side measuring about 40cm by 40cm (16in x 16in). You can safely house a gecko in a smaller container than this, but note that for a tank less than 2 feet in length it is difficult to maintain the required temperate gradient. Base area is more important than height, as leopard geckos are naturally ground-dwelling animals, although they may enjoy climbing (over rocks or up pieces of branch).

Be careful not to position the vivarium in full sun or near a radiator or other heat source, as this can lead to sudden and unacceptable temperature rises within the enclosure, which may be harmful to your gecko.

Leopard gecko vivariums come in basically two kinds: self-assembly ones made of wood, with sliding glass panels; and glass or plastic ones that resemble aquariums. Both types should have an effective form of ventilation and be secure, so that the gecko can't get out of its own accord or nuisances (such as flies and small pets) can get in.

Wooden vivariums have the advantage that you can attach light and heat fittings easily to the inside, but great care must be taken to minimise the risk of it catching fire. Glass and plastic vivariums reduce the fire risk but are more prone to fracture and break. The cost of a good vivarium varies from £50 to £200, depending on the size and make. Recommended makes include Exo Terra and Viv Exotic.

Basic heating

Whichever kind of vivarium you go for, it is essential that it be equipped with one or more heat sources to maintain a fairly steady temperature gradient across the length of the tank, going from 20°C (70°F) at the cool end to 30°C (85°F) at the warm end. (Try to keep temperature variations to within three degrees either end.)

The range in temperature across the vivarium is necessary to allow the leopard gecko the freedom to choose the temperature it needs at any particular moment. Because it has no internal body heat, the lizard is completely dependent on external heat to maintain its metabolism. The way a gecko regulates its body heat is by moving from one place to another.

The temperature gradient can usually be achieved with an electrically powered heat mat (8 to 12 W) placed at one end of the tank and controlled by an accurate and reliable thermostat.

For a wooden vivarium, the heat mat must be placed within the tank, but not in contact with the wooden base or sides. Special 'heat mat holders' can be used for this purpose, or you may construct a support from some suitable heat-resistant material. Always allow a small air gap (1 to 2 mm) between the top of the heat mat and any substrate you may place on top of it - this prevents the heat mat from over-heating and either fusing or catching fire.

For a plastic or glass vivarium, the heat mat should be placed beneath the tank, separated from it by a small air gap (again to prevent over-heating), and sitting on an insulating base, such as polystyrene tiles.

The heat mat should cover roughly one third of the base of the vivarium, and the temperature probe of the thermostat situated an inch or two inches above the substrate in the heated end of the vivarium.

Supplementary heating

Sometimes you may need to add another heat source to ensure the correct temperatures are attained. This may be necessary if the vivarium is located in a room that is liable to be below 15°C for extended periods of time.

One option is a 40 W infra-red heat lamp, positioned about eight inches above the substrate on the warm end of the vivarium, controlled by its own separate thermostat. These lamps tend to be short-lived (i.e. need replacing once or twice a month), so a 40 W ceramic heat emitter is a better alternative - this is somewhat more expensive (£20 versus £5 for a heat lamp) but it can last for years.

In either case, ensure that the gecko can never come into direct contact with the heat source, because if it does it may incur a severe burn.

For a wooden vivarium, it is essential that a bulb holder with a ceramic fitting be used, to reduce the risk of fire.

When choosing a thermostat, it is good to go for a reliable make - Microclimate is a good choice as their thermostats come with a five year guarantee.

Always monitor the temperatures

Having equipped the vivarium with its heat source(s) you must now ensure the correct temperature gradient is achieved. It's a good idea to use two digital thermometers, placed at the two ends of the tank, with the temperature probes a few inches above the substrate. Adjust the settings on the thermostat until the desired temperatures are achieved (this may take several days). When the gecko is installed in its vivarium, it is essential that you monitor the temperatures on a regular basis and adjust the thermostat settings if necessary.

Lighting

One of the advantages of leopard geckos over other lizards is that they do not require UV lighting. However, you may want to add lighting to the vivarium so that you can more easily view the geckos during the night.

If you are using infra-red heat lamps there is no need for additional lighting, but if not you may want to invest in a set of Lucky Reptile LED night lights. These provide a soft blue light that does not disturb the gecko and makes night-time viewing possible.

Another optional extra is a low energy (8 W) white light bulb for daytime viewing. On a timer (i.e. timed to turn on in the morning and switch off in the early evening) this can be beneficial for the gecko, making it easier for it to distinguish day from night and thereby assisting its circadian rhythm. This is important if the gecko is housed in a dark room where it may have difficulty knowing when it is day or night.

Hides

Another essential requirement are a set of hides in which the leopard gecko can sleep, rest or just hide away from its pesky owner. The most important hide is the so-called moist hide which is placed roughly in the centre of the vivarium. This can be as simple as a small sandwich box with a hole cut in the lid or a specially designed little enclosure like the Exo Terra snake cave. This should be lined with damp paper towels or (better) sphagnum moss. It is important that the inside of this hide be kept moist (spray daily with water), as this will assist the gecko when it is shedding its skin.

The gecko will also appreciate hides at both the warm and cool ends of the vivarium. The warm hide is especially important as this is where the gecko will often retire to digest its meal. The Exo Terra medium-sized cave is suitable for use as both a cold and warm hide.

Going to town with the decor

Now that the essentials have been dealt with, the fun bit begins. You can now add additional bits and pieces to make the vivarium a more fun place for the gecko to live and a more attractive adornment for your room. These can include living plants, although these require maintenance and may need UV lighting. An alternative is a convincing plastic substitute - vines, creepers, cacti and leafy bushes. These are safe for the gecko, look good and are easy to clean.

Rocks, pebbles and bits of branches can be added, provided these have been carefully sterilised beforehand. Don't over-clutter the vivavarium, as your gecko still needs to get about, and the last thing you want is for him/her to risk life and limb in a semi-lethal army assault course.

Substrate

Regardless of what kind of vivarium you go for, its base has to be covered with a suitable substrate which the gecko can safely move about on. For many years, sand was the preferred substrate, as it is cheap, easily available and gives a nice naturalistic look. The problem is that it is easily ingested by the gecko and can lead to impaction of the stomach and a slow, agonising death.

Sand is definitely not recommended for geckos less than six months old and is not advisable for older geckos. If you do opt for sand, make sure that it is of the fine rather than coarse variety and has been thoroughly cleaned. Bacteria in uncleaned sand can cause your gecko to become ill and die. At all costs, avoid calcium sand which is particularly dangerous for geckos as it encourages the lizard to ingest the sand. A sand substrate should be laid to a depth of 4-6 inches. Do not place heavy stones or rocks on the surface of the sand as the gecko may burrow underneath these and be crushed. The sand should be replaced once every three months.

If you are not concerned with appearances, and/or are on a budget, a perfectly adequate alternative is paper towels, replaced at least once a week. A more attractive but still cost-effective choice is ceramic tiles. These have the advantage of being cheap, easily obtainable (in whatever pattern or colour you desire), easy to fit and - best of all - easy to clean. With tiles, faecal and other organic matter (uneaten food) are easily spotted and removed. Whereas sand and paper towels have to be constantly replaced, the same ceramic tiles can be used over and over again, providing they are regularly cleaned with a suitable, lizard-friendly detergent.

One other option is "gecko carpet", a specially designed fabric that can be cut to the size of the vivarium. This is a fairly expensive option, but the main downside is that there is a risk of the gecko catching its tiny toes on the "hooks" that make up the carpet.

There is no perfect substrate, all have their pros and cons, but ceramic tiles are probably the best option. You can either have these cut to the exact size of your vivarium, or else overlay them to create a staircase effect which your leopard gecko may enjoy climbing.

© James Travers 2014