Leopard Geckos - health and hygiene

Cleaning

I cannot over-stress the importance of regular and thorough cleaning of the vivarium if you are to keep your leopard gecko healthy and minimise the risk of it becoming infected with some nasty parasite. You should check for stools, vomit and other bodily excretions and carefully remove these whenever you see them as they are a source of harmful bacteria. The stools of a healthy gecko are 1-2 cm in length, capsule-like, brown at one end, white at the other.

Poorly shaped, runny or blood-marked stools are a sign that your gecko has contracted an illness. The same is true if you see large pools of liquid or any patches of blood. If this persists over several days, a trip to the vet is strongly recommended. Note that a healthy gecko does not produce liquid urine in any noticeable quantity, so if you start seeing pools of liquid waste you should be concerned.

The vivarium and its entire contents should be given a thorough clean at least once a month, once a fortnight if you can manage it. There are reptile friendly disinfectants (e.g. Beaphar Deep Clean Reptile Disinfectant) which are extremely effective in removing bacteria that can cause such nasties as salmonella, MRSA and E coli. Some disinfectants even claim to kill the cryptosporidium parasite - these may be costlier, but they may help to prolong the life of your lizard.

Once the vivarium and its contents have all been cleaned (a thorough job should take from 30 minutes to an hour), the vivarium should have no unpleasant odours and it will appear spotless. It's a good idea to soak all of the contents of the vivarium (water bowls, hides, etc.) in warm water with a generous amount of a reptile friendly disinfectant for about an hour, before spraying with the disinfectant and giving a final rinse.

Whilst cleaning is underway, the gecko must be temporarily housed elsewhere, ideally in a faunarium or similar pet container.

In-between these full-scale clean-outs, you should do spot cleaning every so often, e.g. remove spilt calcium powder, bits of uneaten food or skin shed by the gecko, to reduce the risk of bacterial growth.

Health issues

If due care is given to its diet, hygiene and basic needs, a leopard gecko is a remarkably resilient creature and health issues will seldom, if ever, arise. Most of the illnesses that a gecko is prone to can be avoided by ensuring it has a clean, safe, adequately heated environment and the correct diet. The most common problems are listed below.

Shedding problems

A common problem is when the gecko doesn't complete its shedding properly. Bits of skin may still be attached to its extremities or around the eyes. These can be removed by moistening with damp paper towels and (in extreme cases) using tweezers. If skin is attached to its toes, standing the gecko in a shallow (i.e. 1 cm deep) bath of warm water for a few minutes can help to loosen the old skin. This problem can usually be avoided if the gecko has an adequate moist hide.

Tail loss

Tail loss can result from man-handling the gecko, most commonly when its owner attempts to pick it up and alarms the lizard into taking fright as he does so. The gecko will survive tail loss but it will take some time (several months) before it grows back, and the replacement will never look as good as the original. The moral: always take extreme care when handling your leopard gecko.

Mouth rot

An unsightly swollen mouth is evidence of mouth rot, which is caused by unsanitary housing conditions. This can be avoided by ensuring the vivarium and its contents are regularly and effectively cleaned. It can be treated by swabbing the infected area with hydrogen peroxide. If the swelling remains after a few days, you should take the gecko to the vet.

Injuries

Sometimes, a leopard can injure itself whilst climbing about in its enclosure. A common injury is a heat burn caused by contact with a heat lamp - this can be avoided if the lamp is positioned well out of reach of the gecko and/or given a protective cover. If several geckos are housed together, they may sustain injuries by fighting. Serious injuries should be treated by a vet.

Respiratory infections

If its enclosure is too cool, the gecko may be prone to a respiratory infection. Symptoms include difficulty breathing and foaming at the mouth. If this happens, it may need to be given antibiotics to recover, so you must consult your vet.

Bacterial and parasitic infections

Bacterial infections and parasitic infections - such as coccidia - may arise if the gecko is kept in an unsanitary enclosure and/or given food that is itself unsanitary. Crickets and mealworms kept in dirty containers are as likely to cause problems as not cleaning the gecko's vivarium regularly. Symptoms are drastic loss of weight, vomiting and badly formed or bloody stools. Unless treated by a vet in time, the gecko is likely to die. Cryptosporidium is a highly contagious form of parasitic infection from which the gecko is unlikely to recover. If the vet diagnoses this, euthanasia may be the kindest option, as the chance of recovery is remote.

Metabolic bone disease

Metabolic bone disease (MBD) is caused by low calcium levels and can result in swollen joints and fractures to the spine and legs. It can be avoided by ensuing the gecko has a regular intake of vitamin D3, essential for calcium absorption. This can easily be administered by dusting its food with a vitamin-supplemented powder. If left untreated, the gecko will end up with permanent deformities.

Dysecdysis

Dysecdysis is caused by poor nutrition and a lack of moisture. This can lead to skin shedding difficulty - patches of old skin are visible and should be removed to avoid infection.

© James Travers 2014